In the world of Italian fashion, everything is changing. In an effort to improve its situation, the struggling luxury brand has appointed Demna Gvasalia as its creative director.
As of 2021, Demna will only use his first name, and he will start his new job in the beginning of July. Gucci owner Kering said this in a press release to CNN.
Kering announced last month that it would no longer be working with Sabato De Sarno, the designer who led Gucci's creative department for just two years.
The poor performance of Kering's biggest brand, Gucci, which accounts for approximately half of the French luxury group's sales and two-thirds of its profits, has hurt the company's sales. Kering's revenue for the entire year 2024 decreased by 12 percent to €17.2 billion, or $8.3 billion, with Gucci accounting for €7.7 billion.
Kering, which also owns McQueen, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent, praised Demna's work at Balenciaga, where he has been creative director since 2015. In an emailed statement, Kering said that Demna "redefined modern luxury, earning global recognition and cementing his authority on the industry." The group does not break out financial results for Balenciaga, which falls into its “Other Houses” category, whose revenues amounted to €3.2 billion ($3.4 billion) in 2024.
.png)
The chunky Triple S sneakers and the Speed trainer with a sock-like fit were two of Demna's Balenciaga bestsellers. His bags, like the most recent Rodeo style with Kim Kardashian in the campaign and the resurrected Le City from the 2000s, have also received a lot of attention.
.png)
However, Demna’s tenure hasn’t been without controversy: In 2022, Balenciaga received widespread backlash after it released an advertising campaign that was viewed as an endorsement of child abuse and pornography. Following furious online criticism and a $25 million lawsuit against the production company behind one of them, Balenciaga admitted “a series of grievous errors for which (it) takes responsibility” and withdrew the campaigns.
Demna has also made headlines with his provocative creations, like a $2,000 blue Ikea bag and $1,850 "destroyed" sneakers that came out of the box ripped and frayed. François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and CEO, said that Demna’s contribution over the past decade to both the group and brand had been “tremendous,” adding that “his creative power is exactly what Gucci needs.”
“Demna’s profound understanding of contemporary culture, coupled with his extensive experience in conceiving visionary projects, has established him as one of the most influential and accomplished creatives of his generation,” added Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s deputy CEO in charge of brand development.
The announcement that Donatella Versace would be giving up her position as chief creative officer of Versace, which she has held since 1997, to former image and design director Dario Vitale of Miu Miu, precedes the appointment.
A new designer for Balenciaga has not yet been announced.